Sunday, 23 October — Port Hood

Up at 9h, I went out to Sandeannies for breakfast; it was grey and overcast when I left the motel, but, by the time I finished breakfast, some sun and blue sky patches were piercing the general cloud cover. I returned to the motel, where I read and relaxed for a while. I was to meet friends at the Shrine in Mabou at 12h30 for a visit with other friends on Mabou Ridge, who have a home with fantastic views of Cape Mabou, the Mabou River, and Rocky Ridge. I left early enough to arrive there on time after including a trip up Hunters Road on Rocky Ridge for photos, a marvellous spot with panoramic views overlooking the Southwest Mabou River, the Mabou River, Cape Mabou, Hillsborough, and Mabou Ridge, capturing views I would not again see this year.

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[#1] Photo 251 of 264: Colours along the Southwest Mabou River, from Hunters Road in Glengarry
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[#2] Photo 252 of 264: Apple tree along Hunters Road in Glengarry:
the apples are still clinging to the tree, but the leaves are mostly stripped by the winds of the recent days
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[#3] Photo 253 of 264: Mabou Mountain from Hunters Road in Glengarry
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[#4] Photo 254 of 264: Big Cove at the left and the Southwest Mabou River below Mabou Ridge,
seen from Hunters Road in Glengarry
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[#5] Photo 255 of 264: Colours east of the Southwest Mabou River below Mabou Ridge,
seen from Hunters Road in Glengarry
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[#6] Photo 256 of 264: The estuary of the Southwest Mabou River,
seen from near the smaller bridge on the West Mabou Road

We all got into one car and headed to Rankinville for the trip up Mabou Ridge, which always brings to my mind Dan Hughie MacEachern’s great march, Trip to Mabou Ridge, Buddy MacMaster’s version of which I have as a ring tone on my iPhone. Our friends there graciously allowed me to get photos of their magnificent views and insisted we stay for a fine and copious tea. Cape Breton hospitality is simply amazing!

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[#7] Photo 257 of 264: The steeple of St Marys rises beside the Mabou River below the Cape Breton Highlands,
seen from Mabou Ridge
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[#8] Photo 258 of 264: The southern edge of Cape Mabou rises above the Mabou River,
seen from Mabou Ridge in Rankinville
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[#9] Photo 259 of 264: Rocky Ridge rises in the distance above the Southwest Mabou River Valley,
seen from Mabou Ridge in Rankinville

I arrived at the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre cèilidh about twenty minutes after it started; today’s music was by Chrissy Crowley and Jason Roach. Shortly thereafter, dancers took to the floor, forcing the musicians to play for a square set, danced by four couples. Another square set followed a few minutes later, again danced by four couples, the last of the afternoon. A waltz set, ending in “In Memory of Herbie MacLeod”, also brought four couples to the floor to dance. Edna MacDonald and Kimberley Wotherspoon both shared their steps during a set towards the end of the afternoon. One final blast of music and a good visit with my music-loving friends for my last day in Cape Breton!

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[#10] Photo 260 of 264: Chrissy Crowley and Jason Roach at the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre in Judique
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[#11] Photo 261 of 264: Edna MacDonald step dancing at the cèilidh
at the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre this afternoon
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[#12] Photo 262 of 264: Kimberley Wotherspoon step dancing at the cèilidh
at the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre this afternoon

After the cèilidh had ended, the same friends with whom I had travelled up to Mabou Ridge had invited me to dinner in West Mabou, so I drove there, stopping on Mabou Road for some final pictures of Cape Mabou in the late afternoon sun, and enjoyed a lovely evening of conversation as well as a fine home-cooked dinner (baked hake, mashed potatoes, carrots, peas, biscuits, beet pickles, and lemon meringue pie, a favourite dessert which I had no will to decline). It was a marvellous opportunity to catch up on our news one last time.

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[#13] Photo 263 of 264: Cape Mabou in the declining sun, seen from the Mabou Road near highway 19

I got back to the motel, got most of my things ready to load into the car in the morning, and was soon in bed, as I was facing a long drive tomorrow. The Buckleys had kept the cold under control most of the day, so I dosed myself again and was soon fast asleep.