Thursday, 15 June — Whycocomagh to Chéticamp¹

I arose at 8h10 after a great night’s sleep to a sunny, bright, blue sky day with a few puffy clouds at the horizon and a warm-feeling +13 (55). It would have been a lovely day for a hike, but, given this is the time when mother bears are most protective of their cubs, I decided to get the bear spray first (though I have never needed it in the past) and to rest and recover from the trip, getting in some photography. Still full from yesterday’s dinner, I skipped breakfast and worked for an hour on yesterday’s post before leaving the motel a little after 10h.

I drove out the Whycocomagh Port Hood Road, which was in generally OK shape, much better than its ghastly shape last fall: the road had been graded and the many potholes filled, but it was still bumpy and those potholes will reäppear at the first hard rain. Erosion was marked by a pylon where the road caved in last year along the Indian River guardrails—that area badly needs a proper conduit for waters on the road to run across the shoulder and down the bank! The stretch along Kewstoke Brook, usually one of the better sections of the road, is in poorer shape, with some potholes, especially near the bridge. The section climbing up the mountain is in poor shape; it shows a little work has been done, but it needs a lot more. Just past Dunakin Mountain Road, where the culvert caved in last year, an unmarked nasty-looking trench now runs across to the middle of the road: beware at night! I stopped along the road for the beautiful views of the highlands at Upper Glencoe and of Glencoe Mills and again at four corners on the Glencoe Road for photos of the church and the parish hall, a place full of great memories for me. By the time I left, a number of white clouds had appeared but more than half the sky remained pure blue. The Glencoe Road has been freshly gravelled and is in excellent shape from one end to the other, with only one small bump near the summit of “Mount Glencoe” [place names in quotes are my made-up names for features that do not appear on topographical maps and for which I know of no local name]. I stopped again, of course, for photos of Cape Mabou on the way up “Mount Glencoe” and of the Upper Southwest Mabou River at Long Johns Bridge. The Rear Intervale Road is in fantastic shape: fresh gravel on the eastern end and, on the western end, crushed stone from last year’s work, a fine smooth ride; they should do this for the Whycocomagh Port Hood Road, which is in far worse shape than the Rear Intervale Road was last year!

¹ Posted on Saturday, 17 June, for Thursday, 15 June. The Hunters Road and Doryman photos were actually posted on Friday, 16 June, but have been placed here where they belong in chronological order.↩

When I arrived at the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre, Hailee LeFort on fiddle and Allan Dewar on keyboard were playing for the lunchtime cèilidh. Siobhan Beaton was on the desk when I went in and I enquired about the new-this-year Musical Walking Tours with a picnic lunch and private cèilidh, which I learned begin on 26 June. This sounds like a neat idea, taking advantage of both the nearby Celtic Shores Coastal Trail and the Centre’s musical talent! I’ll definitely get out for one of those. I had a bowl of chowder and the house salad as I listened to the lovely music; Hailee’s playing was gorgeous and her slow airs were especially fine (“by their slow airs shall ye judge them”), while Allan’s accompaniments were the perfect complement. I’d have loved to have stayed through the end, but my schedule pressed, so I reluctantly left.

I drove to Port Hood and chatted with my hostess there, who was surprised to see me, as I wasn’t due there until Saturday. I explained I had a full schedule Saturday and wouldn’t arrive until after midnight, so she will put the key in a mutually agreed spot for me. I continued on to dear friends on Rocky Ridge and had a good visit with them and retrieved the bear spray they keep for me when I’m not in Canada. He also kindly took the time to figure out how to stick a piece of the back bumper that had sprung loose on my Prius (a consequence of last year’s misadventure at Hays River, I’m sure) back in place—he’s extraördinarily gifted at figuring such things out, which simply leave me scratching my head.

Asylum Bridge on the West Mabou Road is now closed to traffic for repairs, so I drove up Hunters Road, where I stopped for photos of the gorgeous area displayed at my feet. I then drove on to Chéticamp and got my motel room there.

I then made my way to the Doryman for tonight’s tribute to Arthur Muise, where I had dinner (egg rolls and pan-fried haddock). I had intended to work on my notes after eating, but instead ended up chatting with friends until the music started. And what an evening it was! The first hour began with Brent Aucoin, playing Arthur’s fiddle, and Robert Deveaux on keyboard; they were joined by Gélas Larade on guitar after their third set. There was no admission, but a donation box was present to receive contributions for the cancer society that helped Arthur when he was ill and Robert spoke eloquently about its work midway through the hour. After their fifth set, a square set was danced by four couples throughout the figures. Brent stepped down and was replaced by Donny LeBlanc, with Robert and Gélas continuing as his accompanists. He played three sets and was then joined by Gerry Deveau on spoons for a shorter than usual set. Hilda replaced Robert for a waltz and a set of strathspeys and reels. Douglas Cameron, who had to leave early to get up for lobster fishing in the morning, took over on the fiddle, Robert returned to the keyboard, and Gélas continued on guitar. Douglas give us a set of jigs, one of strathspeys and reels that brought one step dancer to the floor, and a call for step dancers that went unanswered. Gélas retired for the night and Mike Hall, also playing Arthur’s fiddle, with Hilda on keyboard took over the stage and gave us two sets, the second a long one with Tullochgorum, during which three ladies and a gentleman all step danced and a couple and two ladies also danced. Gillian Head, with Hilda continuing on keyboard, played three sets, during one of which a couple danced. Colin Grant on fiddle and Jason Roach on keyboard replaced them and began with Arthur Muise’s Jig by Jerry Holland, played more jigs, and then went into strathspeys and reels; a couple danced during this set. A set of jigs, a set of strathspeys and reels during which Hilda step danced beautifully as did another gentleman I don’t know, and a final set beginning with King George by popular request during which a couple danced concluded their time on stage. The finale, with Jason on keyboard and Brent, Mike, Robert, Colin, and Gillian on fiddles, lasted about 25 minutes and brought five people out to dance or step dance, ending a few minutes after 0h. The music exhibited a great range of both fiddle and keyboard styles and was a marvellous tribute indeed. David Gillis got permission to videotape the proceedings, so, if you missed the evening, you will doubtless catch some extracts on his Fiddle Tunes radio show which airs on CKJM, CJFX, and CKOA, all of which also stream to the internet.

After thanking the musicians, I regained the car and returned to the motel; it was a chilly night at +8 (46) when I went inside. I then finished and posted yesterday’s account, after which I retired at 1h30.