I awoke about 6h and observed a bright, sunny, blue sky out my bedroom window, looked at the clock, said no way, rolled over, and went back to sleep. By the time I finally got up some before 8h, it was +17 (63) and mostly cloudy. I could barely move at first and had to use the wall to brace myself as I staggered out to the kitchen and made and ate breakfast. I took my tea out on the veranda and continued soaking up the views from there, as this morning is my last on this trip to Meat Cove; I’ll get another crack when I return for the Seawall Trail lobster boil on 9 July.
By 9h53, when I headed down to the village to visit a good friend there, it was a better day out, with bright sun, some blue sky, St Paul Island visible in the Cabot Strait, and big puddles from the rains last night. My calves still registered every step with a loud complaint, but I had my balance back and just grit my teeth and carried on. I had a great chat with my friend, getting caught up on the winter news and the progress of the Seawall Trail, so near and dear to my heart. Loath not to patronize the Meat Cove Restaurant even though I still had food in the refrigerator at the Lodge, I stopped in and had a scallop burger with fries, cole slaw, and tea. I drove back up to the Lodge and posted photos from yesterday’s hike as I continued soaking in the peace and beauty of the scene.
It had turned into a gorgeous day, with a nearly pure blue sky, almost hazeless over the water, and pleasant at +22 (72), that offered lots of photo ops, but I had the devil’s own time getting up off the porch and packing up the car: I just wanted to stay put and found it so hard to leave!
¹ Posted on Tuesday, 27 June, for Thursday, 22 June. I have again added a few photos which were not posted to Facebook.↩
Lodge
I made Black Point at 14h13, where I think I got some of the clearest photos of St Paul Island I have ever taken, and stopped at several other points for photos from the Meat Cove Road. In Capstick, I stopped off at the Million Dollar Cottages, as a truck was in the yard, but there was no answer at the door, so I left my card.
from the Meat Cove Road at Black Point on a perfect day.
The Cabot Trail is under construction from South Harbour to Neils Harbour. I stopped for photos at several of the look-offs along the Cabot Trail and even walked out the boardwalk to the rocks at Green Cove, from which the views are especially delightful; I had great trouble navigating the steps and fairly level platform as my legs just screamed bloody murder—I should have taken my walking stick to help with the balance. Wharf Road in Ingonish has fantastic views and I got some of them as I forced myself to walk a little. By then, I had run out of time for photos on this glorious day, as I needed to be in Bras d’Or near North Sydney by 19h30, so I drove on. The Cabot Trail is in pretty poor shape in and through the Ingonishes and badly needs resurfacing there. When I reached Ingonish River, I found myself behind a truck carrying an oversize load with escorts both front and back. The driver did better than I expected, but it was still a very slow ascent up Cape Smokey and a long line of vehicles collected behind by the time we reached the summit. I detoured into Cape Smokey Provincial Park for a pit stop and to try to recover some patience. It was +17 (63) there, mostly cloudy with grey rain clouds and hazy views in the park, so I took no photos. After what I thought was a decent interval to let the convoy make it down the mountain, I left, only to discover them just below the summit, having just started down from where they had stopped to let those behind them get by and to take a break. So I got to follow them down the mountain anyway. Fortunately, they pulled off into the turn-out at the base of the mountain and let me and the other queued vehicles by. I’m sure glad I don’t have that driver’s job! The Cabot Trail from the base of Cape Smokey to about 1 km (5/8 mi) from the traffic light in Indian Brook is now completely rebuilt and offers a nice smooth ride.
Park, seen from the Cabot Trail.
with Ingonish Island to the left, seen from the rocks on the south side of Green Cove.
if one know how to read them, to a turbulent geological past.
on the south side of Green Cove. Not moving far or fast today!
the flat top of Cape Smokey rises above Red Head in the foreground,
and the Cape Breton Highlands back of Ingonish are towards the right.
and the Cape Breton Highlands around North Bay Ingonish.
When I arrived at the ferry dock, the ferry was on the Englishtown side, so I checked my iPhone and discovered a voicemail from the son of the man at the Million Dollar Cottages in Capstick. I called him back and explained who I was; he said his father was in Bonavista (Newfoundland) watching the drift ice pass by, but that he would pass on my greetings when he returned. The ferry soon arrived and I used up the last punch on my card, so I purchased a new one. I bought the one I had for $13.50; the new one cost $35! Quite the price rise in the few years I had the old one! Each card is good for ten rides and has no expiration date. But, even at $35, it’s still a bargain, as without one, each ride is now $7, so getting one means you ride at half price (and less than half price should the rates increase again).
The Englishtown Road is in fine shape and once on it, the drive from the ferry to Bras d’Or was uneventful. I checked into the motel and had a good chat with the guy at the desk. It was a better day in Bras d’Or than at Cape Smokey, but there were lots of clouds.
I switched out of my hiking clothes into more appropriate wear for dining and headed over to the Blue Mist, only a couple of minutes from the motel, and found it nearly full up, with only one table, which I took. I ordered dinner (salad and the Blue Mist burger, which is a burger extraördinaire!) and dined as the session began. Mario Colisimo sat down at the piano; Paul Cranford, Joseph MacNeil, Larry Parks, and a lady I don’t know were on fiddles; a lady played flute and her husband cello (I later learned they are from New England and spend a couple of weeks each year in Cape Breton taking in the music and playing at sessions). Another gentleman I don’t know soon arrived and joined in on fiddle. A guitarist was added soon after that. A bit past 21h, Doug MacPhee replaced Mario on piano and Mario took up his guitar. Yvon LeFort arrived later and joined the group on fiddle. Brenda Stubbert took Doug’s place at the piano and another fiddler I don’t know sat down. After twenty minutes, Brenda retired and Mario went back on piano. Some members of the group left for the evening and Doug had another stint at the piano. Although they were just sessions, the calibre of the players made for great and enjoyable listening. I found, though, I mostly kept time to the music with my head, as every time I started to tap my toes, my calves made their displeasure felt. I left the session, still in progress, about 23h15 and was in bed and asleep at the motel shortly thereafter.