Thursday, 6 July — Whycocomagh

The sixth day of KitchenFest!, I woke up at 9h to yet another fine day, a balmy +22 (72). I again drove to the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre across the backcountry, always a beautiful trip full of pastoral scenes and some fine vistas.

Today’s KitchenFest! cèilidh at the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre began with Hailee LeFort on fiddle and Allan Dewar on keyboard, who gave us some fine tunes for the first half hour. Then Wendy MacIsaac on fiddle, with Allan continuing on keyboard, played the rest of the time I was there, great sets of gorgeous tunes indelibly stamped with Wendy’s lovely down to earth style. Mary MacGillivray and Siobhan Beaton each showed us their fine steps and a square set was danced by four couples mid-way through. One of Wendy’s especially remarkable sets during the afternoon featured a gorgeous slow air, flowing, expressive, and lush, a joy to hear. She is a such fine player! If she doesn’t get your toes a-tappin’, there’s something wrong with you!

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[#1] Photo 383 of 575: Hailee LeFort and Allan Dewar open today’s KitchenFest! lunchtime cèilidh
at the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre.
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[#2] Photo 384 of 575: Wendy MacIsaac and Allan Dewar at the KitchenFest! lunchtime cèilidh
at the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre today.
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[#3] Photo 385 of 575: Mary MacGillivray step dancing to the music of Wendy MacIsaac and Allan Dewar
at the KitchenFest! lunchtime cèilidh at the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre today.
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[#4] Photo 386 of 575: Siobhan Beaton step dancing to the music of Wendy MacIsaac and Allan Dewar
at the KitchenFest! lunchtime cèilidh at the Celtic Music Interpretive Centre today.

After the cèilidh finished, I drove north on the Shore Road to Maryville and paid a visit to the harbour there. Known as Pig Cove, it is small fishing harbour with fine views of St Georges Bay. Many lobster traps as associated fishing gear were stacked neatly on the wharves, following the end of the lobster fishing season at the end of June; considerable artistry can be seen in these neatly stowed traps and colourful ropes and floats. After some photos there, I continued on the Shore Road to Port Hood and there took the Colindale Road, another of my favourite drives, stopping for photos at several points along the way and giving me a chance to soak in the ever amazing beauty of Cape Mabou, after which I ended up at the Mull in Mabou, where I had supper (turkey soup and a fine fisherman’s platter). I then drove up Mabou Ridge, taking many photos there as well, and on to Glencoe Mills, where I arrived well before the KitchenFest! dance was to begin, giving me a chance to snap a few photos at dusk and to chat with friends and the musicians who arrived early.

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[#5] Photo 387 of 575: Butter and eggs is the name by which I know these wildflowers at home.
Taken at the harbour at Pig Cove in the grass near one of the wharves.
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[#6] Photo 388 of 575: Four boats on blocks.
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[#7] Photo 389 of 575: Landing Day is not far in the past.
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[#8] Photo 390 of 575: A riot of colours atop the lobster traps.
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[#9] Photo 391 of 575: More brilliant colours.
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[#10] Photo 392 of 575: Each fisherman has a unique way of landing traps;
in this one, most of the ropes are stowed inside the traps.
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[#11] Photo 393 of 575: The Nova Scotia Atlas names this point as Big Rorys Point.
To its left, it shows two large ponds inland, both with entrances on the cove.
One of these ponds, Allan Iain’s, I have seen, as the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail passes along its eastern side;
the other, Gillis Pond, I have only glimpsed from the trail and the Shore Road.
The cove is shown as Big Rorys Cove, the northern portion of which is known locally by what name?
No one answered this: it is known as Pig Cove. I have no idea why.
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[#12] Photo 394 of 575: What is the name of the distant highland?
No one answered this one either: these are the Creignish Hills
and the slope at the right is that of Creignish Mountain.
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[#13] Photo 395 of 575: This bright red building should be enough to identify this harbour.
Hailee LeFort correctly answered this: Pig Cove, officially known as Maryville Harbour.
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[#14] Photo 396 of 575: View of the harbour from near the boat ramp.
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[#15] Photo 397 of 575: This island lies to the north of the harbour. What is its name?
This question was correctly answered by Linda Rankin and Joe MacMaster: Henry Island.
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[#16] Photo 398 of 575: In this detail of the island, a feature can be seen above the trees. What is it?
Daniel Crook correctly answered that it was a lighthouse, but put it on the wrong island. It is on Henry Island.
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[#17] Photo 399 of 575: The shore north of the harbour stretching out to Katies Point in the centre.
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[#18] Photo 400 of 575: The harbour and its entrance.
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[#19] Photo 401 of 575: Green fields above Sutherlands Cove in Colindale.
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[#20] Photo 402 of 575: The ever stunning view of the Four Points from the Colindale guardrails.
Those points are, from left to right, Finlay Point, Coal Mine Point, Beaton Point, and Green Point.
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[#21] Photo 403 of 575: This mountain rises above the fields of West Mabou, as seen from Colindale. What’s its name?
No one answered this question; it is, of course, Mabou Mountain.
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[#22] Photo 404 of 575: Mabou Harbour Mountain ends in Green Point at the left.
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[#23] Photo 405 of 575: Another lovely view of the southern edge of glorious Cape Mabou.
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[#24] Photo 406 of 575: Detail of the southern edge of Cape Mabou, showing several of its convolutions.
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[#25] Photo 407 of 575: Cape Mabou is in the far distance, seen through “the Gap”.
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[#26] Photo 408 of 575: A wide angle view of Cape Mabou through “the Gap”. Which mountain is at the left?
No one answered this question correctly: it is, of course, Mabou Mountain.
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[#27] Photo 409 of 575: Cape Mabou seen from which road?
Several folks answered this one; Caitlin MacLean was the first to answer, with a one-word answer, “Ridge!”
Linda Rankin replied that, officially, “[w]e use South West Ridge Road. It’s the proper name,
but locally we say ‘the Ridge’”, explaining Catilin’s answer. It’s also known as the Mabou Ridge Road.
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[#28] Photo 410 of 575: Freshly mown fields.
This was taken from the Mabou Ridge.
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[#29] Photo 411 of 575: Gorgeous panorama from this road.
This is the view from below the top of the Mabou Ridge.
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[#30] Photo 412 of 575: This lovely, relatively new, house at the edge of the top of Mabou Ridge,
which I have been privileged to visit twice thanks to dear friends, has hands down the best view of the Mabou area.
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[#31] Photo 413 of 575: Distant fields from near the top of the ridge.
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[#32] Photo 414 of 575: Cattle grazing and watching me warily as I photograph them and
the glorious fields behind at the top of the ridge.
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[#33] Photo 415 of 575: Purple clover amongst the daisies at the side of the road.
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[#34] Photo 416 of 575: Cape Mabou from the top of the ridge.
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[#35] Photo 417 of 575: Panorama at the top of the ridge.
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[#36] Photo 418 of 575: A row of daisies lines this road as it starts down.
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[#37] Photo 419 of 575: The view on the far side of the ridge.
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[#38] Photo 420 of 575: More beautiful fields, these more yellow than green, near the top of the ridge.
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[#39] Photo 421 of 575: All roads lead to Glencoe. Even the road sign says so!
Don’t forget the KitchenFest! dance there tonight
with Douglas Cameron, Mike Hall, Lawrence Cameron, and Pius MacIsaac!! 21h-0h.
(Either way you take at this sign will bring you to the Parish Hall, though the right fork is slightly shorter.)
The roads are in great shape, freshly gravelled, so come on down!
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[#40] Photo 422 of 575: A nearly full moon over the Parish Hall.
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[#41] Photo 423 of 575: Sunset over St Joseph’s in Glencoe.

Although enough people to form a small square set were present in the hall at 21h, sound checking took some time and the first square set with five couples didn’t get under way until 21h20, when Mike Hall and Douglas Cameron on dual fiddles, Lawrence Cameron on piano, and Pius MacIsaac on guitar began playing a set of jigs. Douglas, Lawrence, and Pius played for the second square set, danced by ten couples in its third figure; it was heart-warming to see two young lads maybe five and eight and one teenager maybe thirteen being introduced to the square sets. Joe MacMaster on fiddle, Douglas on piano, and Pius on guitar played for the third square set, with twenty-one couples dancing its third figure in three or four groups, with a fair amount of fluidity in the groups’ membership. Douglas on fiddle, Lawrence on piano, and Pius on guitar for the fourth square set, danced by nineteen couples in two groups. Mike on fiddle, Lawrence on piano, and Pius on guitar played for the fifth square set, danced by twenty-two couples in its third figure. The same players continued for the step dance sequence, danced by Stephen MacLennan, Lewis MacLennan, Iain MacQuarrie, Amanda MacDonald, Hanna Krebs, Siobhan Beaton, Rachel Cowl (an Ontario lady whose last name is pronounced [koʊl]), Hailee LeFort, Olivier Broussard, and Cheryl MacQuarrie. The last square set, played by Mike on fiddle and Lawrence on piano, was very slow to form; the one big group from the first figure split into three very rowdy groups for the second figure; twenty couples danced the third. The dancers were some efficient tonight, dancing six square sets and a long step dance sequence, and still ending at 23h50 after starting twenty minutes late! The music was superb all night long and a great joy to listen to—these are very masterful players—and clearly a great joy to dance to as well, judging by the enthusiasm and fine steps seen out on the floor. What a great evening!

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[#42] Photo 424 of 575: Mike Hall and Douglas Cameron on dual fiddles, Lawrence Cameron on piano,
and Pius MacIsaac on guitar kicking off the KitchenFest! dance at Glencoe tonight.
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[#43] Photo 425 of 575: Joe MacMaster on fiddle, Douglas Cameron on piano, and Pius MacIsaac on guitar
at the KitchenFest! dance at Glencoe tonight.
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[#44] Photo 426 of 575: Mike Hall on fiddle, Lawrence Cameron on piano, and Pius MacIsaac on guitar
at the KitchenFest! dance at Glencoe tonight.

After thanking the musicians, I drove back to Whycocomagh and was in bed at 0h45, after another great musical day. KitchenFest! rocks!